Heaps of leafy cilantro and the crumbly Mexican white cheese known as <eme>queso fresco update a classic side dish. Cornstarch thickens the cream quickly and imparts a velvety gloss.</eme>

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 1/2 cups chopped scallions (about 6 large)

12 ears corn, kernels cut from cobs

2/3 cup heavy cream

2 teaspoons cornstarch

1 large garlic clove

6 ounces queso fresco or mild feta, crumbled (1 1/3 cups)

1 cup cilantro sprigs

Preparation Heat butter in a deep 12-inch heavy skillet over medium-high heat until foam subsides, then cook scallions, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add corn and 1/2 teaspoon each of salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes. Stir together cream and cornstarch in a small bowl until thoroughly combined, then add to corn and simmer, stirring, until slightly thickened, about 3 minutes. Transfer 1 1/2 cups corn mixture to a blender with garlic and purée until smooth (use caution when blending hot liquids). Return to skillet and cook, stirring constantly, until just heated through. Transfer corn to a large shallow serving bowl and sprinkle cheese and cilantro over top.