Getting rid of the crust for this clever play on quiche Lorraine is a win-win: The cooking process is simplified, and you're left with the very best part of the quiche.

1 1/2 tablespoons fine dry plain bread crumbs

1 cup frozen chopped onions

1 cup diced cooked ham (1/4 pound)

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 (8-ounce) package shredded Swiss cheese (2 cups)

4 large eggs

1 cup heavy cream

1 cup whole milk

Equipment: a 10-inch quiche dish or 10-inch glass pie plate

Accompaniment: green salad

Preparation Preheat oven to 425°F with rack in middle. Butter quiche dish, then sprinkle all over with bread crumbs. Cook onions with ham in butter in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until pale golden, about 5 minutes. Spread in dish, then evenly sprinkle cheese on top. Whisk together eggs, cream, milk, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and pour over cheese. Bake until top is golden and custard is set in center, 20 to 25 minutes. Cool slightly before cutting into wedges.