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Inspired by several Passover customs, this composed first course consists of egg-shaped dumplings made with three kinds of fish and matzo meal, in a chilled, herb-infused fish stock, and a piquant pairing of vinegar-soaked beets and fresh horseradish. Sprigs of herbs -- some bitter -- are more than just a garnish.

• 3 1/2 pounds fish bones (from whitefish, pike, or carp, or a combination), rinsed well
• 3 medium yellow onions, peeled and quartered
• 3 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
• 2 celery stalks, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 8 sprigs fresh thyme
• 6 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 bottle (750 mL) dry white wine
• 1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped
• 1 1/4 pounds skinned pike fillets, cut into 3-inch pieces
• 1 1/4 pounds skinned whitefish fillets, cut into 3-inch pieces
• 1/2 pound skinned carp fillets, cut into 3-inch pieces
• 2 large eggs, plus 2 large egg whites
• 3 tablespoons matzo meal
• 1 tablespoon coarse salt, plus 3/4 teaspoon
• 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
• 3/4 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
• 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
• 1/2 cup ice water
• 3 medium red beets, stems and greens removed
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• Coarse salt
• 2 tablespoons white-wine vinegar
• 1 cup finely grated peeled fresh horseradish
• 1/2 cup white-wine vinegar
• 1/2 teaspoon sugar
• Pinch of coarse salt
• 2 bunches fresh dill, separated into small sprigs
• 2 bunches fresh flat-leaf parsley, separated into small sprigs
• 1 bunch fresh chives (about 12), cut into 1-inch pieces

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