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But slowly roasting whole, skin-on squash until it’s buttery soft means you can break it open with a spoon. While smaller squash, such as acorn, can be roasted whole, they are more starchy and liable to dry out. For this twice-roasted squash recipe, stick with the big boys.

• 1 (3–4-lb.) kabocha, buttercup, or kuri squash
• 3 oz. Parmesan, coarsely grated, plus more shaved for serving
• 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
• 1/2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
• Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
• 3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
• 3 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar
• 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 Tbsp. honey
• 2 scallions, thinly sliced
• 11/2 cups cooked whole grains (such as barley, farro, and/or black or red quinoa)
• 1/3 cup unsalted, roasted pumpkin seeds (pepitas)
• 3 Tbsp. golden raisins
• Shaved Parmesan (for serving)

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