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servings:

Wild salmon is robust and sweet -- almost too good to spoil by cooking; here, sashimi-style slices are tucked beneath earthy soba noodles and tender pea shoots.

• 4 ounces soba noodles
• 1 1/2 teaspoons low-sodium soy sauce
• 1 1/2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
• 1/2 teaspoon Asian fish sauce
• 1 teaspoon mirin (Japanese sweet rice wine)
• 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
• 2 teaspoons toasted sesame seeds
• Coarse salt
• 1 wild salmon or tuna fillet (about 1 1/4 pounds), skinned
• 3 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
• 1 tablespoon soybean oil
• 1/2 teaspoon grated peeled fresh ginger
• 3 ounces pea shoots, stems trimmed
• Freshly ground pepper

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