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I CAN NEVER DECIDE WHAT I LIKE BETTER about this Alsatian and southern-German tart: the quetsches(similar to Italian blue plums, which are available for a short time in the fall) or the butter crust (called a sablé in French and Mürbeteig in German). On a recent trip to France, I learned a trick for making it: if you bake the tart with no sugar over the fruit, you won't get a soggy crust. Just sprinkle on a small amount of sugar after baking. Italian blue plums are only available in the early fall, so I tend to serve this tart at Rosh Hashanah.

• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• 1/8 teaspoon salt
• 1 stick (8 tablespoons) unsalted butter or pareve margarine, cut into 8 pieces
• 1 egg yolk
• 3 tablespoons plum or other fruit jam
• 1 tablespoon brandy
• 1 1/2 pounds Italian blue plums
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
• 1/4 cup sugar

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