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Smoked haddock, known as finnan haddie after the Scottish village Findon, is available in some fish markets. Salt cod makes a good substitute and is generally easier to find.

• 1/4 pound smoked haddock or salt cod
• 4 cups milk
• 1 clove garlic, peeled
• 6 sprigs fresh thyme, plus more for garnish
• 1 small potato, peeled and quartered
• 2 tablespoons heavy cream
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
• 3 tablespoons freshly grated horseradish, or to taste
• 1 baguette (12 inches long), sliced into 1/4-inch-thick slices on the diagonal
• 1 tablespoon olive oil

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