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Try as we might, we couldn't find a substitute for mac and cheese—and we certainly weren't going to leave it off the list. This is the dish that will still be appearing on American tables hundreds of years from now. But mac and cheese in 2009 certainly doesn't look—or taste—the same as it did back in the day. The casserole keeps reflecting our changing tastes. We've seen versions made with every kind of pasta, lighter variations packed with veggies, and super-luxe options redolent of truffle oil. To make mac and cheese truly your own, get creative with the cheese. Here, we use a combination of two of the Netherlands' best-known cheeses: Gouda and Edam.

• 6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) butter, divided
• 1 cup chopped onion
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1/4 cup unbleached all purpose flour
• 3 cups reduced-fat (2%) milk
• 2 cups (packed) coarsely grated aged Gouda cheese plus 1/2 cup finely grated (about 10 ounces total)
• 2 cups (packed) coarsely grated Edam cheese, divided
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 1 1/2 pounds Swiss chard, stems and center ribs removed
• 12 ounces elbow macaroni
• 1 cup fresh breadcrumbs made from crustless sourdough bread
• 1 teaspoon cumin seeds (optional)

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