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In this recipe, the secret to achieving crispy, not soggy, mushrooms is roasting them twice: first, alone on a sheet pan until they’re just tender and their moisture reduced, then again on top of a soft and fluffy focaccia dough, where they will brown and crisp. For a vegan version, skip the Parmesan and use flaky salt or nutritional yeast instead.

• 3 3/4 cups/480 grams all-purpose flour
• 1 tablespoon instant yeast
• 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
• 1 3/4 cups/420 milliliters warm water (about 95 to 100 degrees)
• 1/4 cup/60 milliliters extra-virgin olive oil
• 30 ounces/850 grams (about 2 pounds) trimmed assorted mushrooms, such as oyster, chanterelle, morels, trumpet, cremini
• 6 tablespoons/90 milliliters extra-virgin olive oil
• Kosher salt and black pepper
• Grated Parmesan or flaky sea salt
• 1/2 lemon
• Fresh chopped chives (optional)

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