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servings:

Where most chefs used to just reach for kosher salt, there are now many paths to savory goodness.

• 12 garlic cloves, 6 smashed, 6 finely chopped
• 4 (16-ounce) lamb shanks, excess fat and silver skin trimmed
• 1/2 cup fish sauce, divided; plus more for serving (optional)
• 1/4 cup vegetable oil
• 5 medium shallots, thinly sliced
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro stems
• 6 dried bird chiles
• 4 kaffir lime leaves or 2 teaspoons finely grated lime zest
• 2 bay leaves
• 4 cups homemade chicken stock or low-sodium chicken broth
• 2 large fennel bulbs, quartered
• 8 ounces small carrots, scrubbed, or larger carrots, scrubbed, cut into 3-inch pieces
• 1 cup cilantro, Thai or sweet basil, and/or celery leaves, divided

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