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Here is a jewel of an Afghani dish. Unusual and exotic, it is one I cook regularly, sometimes with shoulder of lamb instead of chicken thighs. I serve it with slow-cooked spinach, finished with leeks and a minuscule amount of rhubarb. This may sound strange, but the rhubarb is sweetened by the leeks and it really does work.

• 1 1/2 cups brown basmati rice
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 2 medium onions, peeled and minced
• coarse salt and black pepper
• 4 large chicken thighs, chopped in half, or 8 smaller ones
• about 4 cups water
• 1 large organic orange
• 1 tablespoon unrefined granulated sugar
• 1/2 cup slivered blanched almonds
• 1/2 cup shelled, chopped pistachio nuts
• large pinch of saffron threads
• 2 to 3 teaspoons rose water
• 7 or 8 cardamom pods, lightly crushed, seeds extracted
• a handful of blanched, skinned baby fava beans (optional)
• a handful of blanched peas (optional)

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